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One was delighted to discover that the south Indian spice mix podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

14 ounces starchy potatoes, chopped into 4cm chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
Forty milliliters mild oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a rough rubble.

Tip into a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.